Berkshires Getaway

The Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art (MASS MoCA). Photo by Michele.

Last month, I escaped New York for a few days to meet up with some friends in the Berkshires. Having lived in New England for many years, going back to Massachusetts always feels like going home. And what better time to visit than the fall?

In addition to hanging out and catching up, we wanted to see some art. Which is why we chose to stay in North Adams. It may be the smallest city in Massachusetts (population 13,708) but it has one huge collection of art. This former mill town, once known as a producer of textiles in the 19th century and electrical components in the 20th, is now a destination for contemporary art fans thanks to the opening of the Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art (MASS MoCA) in the old Arnold Print Works complex.

The Porches Inn, its view obscured by the seemingly endless amount of overhead wires in North Adams.
A partial view of our suite and Sabine, the Porches cat. Photos by Michele.

We stayed at The Porches Inn, located directly across the street from the MASS MoCA campus. A series of row houses originally used to house factory workers, they’ve been converted into a lovely hotel; each building features a porch with rocking chairs (hence the name) and charming rooms. To be honest, I could have just stayed at the hotel all day and been happy. Breakfast every morning consisted of local treats including Berkshire blend coffee and delicious sourdough bread, and in the evenings guests were welcome to enjoy a drink by the fire, which was much appreciated after being out in the cold. And if you were lucky, the Porches’ resident cat, Sabine, would make an appearance.

The Jewett House (i.e. perfect haunted house) built in 1872. Photo by Michele.

The North Adams Public Library. Photo by Michele.

 A ghost sign on a building in downtown North Adams for Enna Jettick shoes for women. Sizes 1-12, $5-$6. Photo by Michele.

"Bus Stand" by Victoria Palermo (2012). Photo by Michele

Even the signage on the local buildings has a certain artistic flair. Photos by Michele.

North Adams has a small downtown area with some lovely Victorian buildings like the Jewett House built in 1872 (wouldn’t it make the best ghost house?) and the Blackinton Mansion built in 1867 and now home to the North Adams Public Library. These 19th-century designs are juxtaposed with modern art installations, some of which serve a practical purpose. For example, “Bus Stand” by Victoria Palermo is both a piece of public art and an actual bus stand. I would also argue that some of the signage found around town constitutes an art form all its own.

The Mohawk Theatre, which first opened in 1938. Photos by Michele.

One of the most striking buildings in downtown North Adams is the old Mohawk Theater, which first opened its doors on November 5, 1938 (the feature film that day was That Certain Age with Deanna Durbin). A 1,200-seat movie theatre,it was an art deco jewel of its time. After it closed in 1991, the theatre fell into disrepair but locals fought plans to tear the Mohawk down and money was raised to restore the theater’s marquee. There is a campaign currently underway for restoration of the rest of the theatre.

Some of the different sites on the MASS MoCA campus. Photos by Michele.

Yet without a doubt the biggest draw in North Adams is Mass MoCA. With 110,000 square feet of exhibition space and 13-acres of property, it’s one of the largest contemporary art museums in the country with a campus as interesting as the art itself. The old brick factory buildings, bridges, and the Hoosic River cutting through the campus serve as a reminder that this was once a place of industry, starting before the Revolutionary War. What's so striking is how the surrounding modern art installations manage to blend right in with its 19th-century industrial setting.

 Examples from the Sol Le Witt "A Wall Drawing Retrospective" including signs telling visitors not to touch the walls. Photos by Michele.

 A detail from "Dance Dance Dance" by Dike Blair (2011). Photo by Michele.

 "Filthy Lucre" by Darren Waterston (2013-14). Photos by Michele.

We spent a whole day at MASS MoCA, and I’m pretty sure we didn’t see everything. What we did manage to catch was Sol LeWitt’s "A Wall Drawing Retrospective," 105 of LeWitt’s large-scale wall drawings, which will be on display at MASS MoCA for 25 years; "The Dying of the Light: Film as Medium and Metaphor," which showcases the work of six artists who create art with analog film; Mark Dion’s "The Octagon Room," an actual room filled with his personal belongings; “In Transit: Between Image and Object,” shipping crates that are turned into works of art by three artists; and “Filthy Lucre,” Darren Waterston’s stunning and somewhat unsettling re-imagination of James McNeill Whistler’s famed “Harmony in Blue and Gold: The Peacock Room.” 

Clockwise from left, "Lunar (Theatre)" (2014); "Black Sun" (2014); and "Scroll 1" from the "Golden series" (2013-14), which measures 108 inches wide and only 12 inches high. All by Teresita Fernández. Photos by Michele.

One of my favourite exhibits was “As Above So Below,” a wonderful collection of works by Teresita Fernández who turns common materials into something beautiful like the “Black Sun” (2014), which utilizes a collection of polycarbonate tubes to create a cloud of colour. And then there was “Lunar” (2014). For this piece, Fernandez covered a platform with 1,500 pounds of small glass beads that gave the appearance of snow.

 Scenes from Lee Boroson's "Moisture Content" (2014). Photos by Michele.

And my vote for most fun exhibit was Lee Boroson’s “Moisture Content” (2014). Don’t be discouraged by the title. Row upon row of hanging plastic orbs lead to a large round curtain that upon entering reveals to have more layers of material and flowers; it reminded me of a wedding dress. And judging by the antics of my fellow visitors, it has to be one of the museum’s top spots for taking selfies. 

MASS MoCA is a wonderful museum that one could probably spend a couple days at to see everything. It’s also hard on the feet, which is why it was nice to enjoy a great meal at the Gramercy Bistro on the campus that evening (and speaking of restaurants, need to mention another North Adams spot, PUBLIC eat+drink, who had amazing bourbon bramble cocktails).

The Williams College campus. Photo by Michele.

Our Berkshires trip wasn't confined to just North Adams. One afternoon we drove over to Williamstown to walk around the picture perfect Williams College campus and grab some coffee. And our last day was my favourite, a trip to Lenox to visit The Mount, Edith Wharton's home. More about that in my next post.

To find out more about MASS MoCA, visit their site here.

Monterey

One of the things on my to do list on my recent trip to California was see the ocean. Although I live on the East Coast and the Atlantic is not so far way, there is something about the Pacific that holds a special place in my heart. So one day we went for a drive down to Monterey.

An important town in early California history, Monterey once had a thriving fishing industry and was home to writers and artists. Today it's better known for its aquarium and marine wildlife, and is the home of the Defense Language Institute Foreign Language Center.

Our first stop that day was the touristy Fisherman's Wharf to check out its noisy residents—sea lions who hang out on a floating dock. When I would visit as a child there was an organ grinder with a monkey who we would give a quarter to and a candy shop that sold big boxes of caramel popcorn. The monkey is long gone but the boxes of popcorn are still there.

Monterey is also John Steinbeck country (the author grew up in neighbouring Salinas) and the town's Cannery Row should be familiar to readers of his work. Although the area's sardine canning factories have been replaced with restaurants and shops, you can still find some small reminders of the former thriving industry.

Passing through Cannery Row, we headed out toward Pacific Grove, stopping to take in the beautiful ocean views. It was pupping season for harbour seals, and I immediately spotted a mama seal and her baby on the rocks below. They stayed for a while, gathering some sun, before wiggling back to the water and swimming away.

What I hadn't expected to find were the colours that greeted us. Only certain hardy flowers thrive along a coastline. One of these is the "Pride of Madeira" whose large, blueish-purple flowers shaped like large bottle cleaners can be found all around Monterey. And then there is the ice plant, which I'm used to seeing without blooms. Its pink/purple flowers are nothing special close-up but look at a large swath of them as they snake along the coastline, and they're magnificent.

Isn't it lovely? But the main beauty was the Pacific Ocean. I stood and watched the waves breaking against the rocks while birds dived down. I love the sight of water—it's calming and comforting. I've often been tempted to get a recording of the ocean to listen to when I can't sleep; the ebb and flow of the water is as good as any lullaby.

I could sit there all day. 

Photos by Michele.

A Day in San Francisco

Last week I was in California for a much needed break. I stayed with my parents and got to hang out with them along with my siblings and nephews as well as a few friends. And after the first couple of days, the weather was lovely, reminding me why so many people flee to the West Coast. 

During my trip I spent a day in the Castro and Mission Districts of San Francisco visiting some friends and walking down memory lane. The Castro is the biggest gay neighbourhood in the country and is filled with restaurants, bars, shops, and one of my favourite places, the Castro Theatre. Since 1922 this jewel of a movie palace has entertained generations of San Franciscans. This was the place where I first saw Louise Brooks on the big screen, where I viewed my first silents in fact accompanied by live music courtesy of the mighty Wurlitzer organ (the song "California, Here I Come" would usually be performed right before a movie started with the audience clapping along), and where I sat through countless foreign films and special screenings. Today it is also home to the San Francisco Silent Film Festival, which I've flown out to attend in the past. The theatre is an absolute beauty and if you're ever in the city, I encourage you to go see whatever is playing. 

Though many of the businesses were different some things, like the iconic Twin Peaks sign, remained the same. And if you're wondering about all the overhead wires, they are used by many of the city's trolleys and buses.

While I was there, I had lunch with a dear friend during which we chatted for a long time over copious amounts of Thai tea. I got to see her darling new apartment, which is filled with original arts and crafts details and decorated just perfectly. Afterwards I took my time walking over to the Mission, admiring the houses along the way. From small Edwardians to the tall iconic Victorians, the colourful houses light up the city and give a neighbourhood character.

It's the little details that truly make the houses special. Sunbeams both large and small, for example, make multiply appearances while others have their own unique detail like a peacock above an entryway. Even the plants and trees add to the houses' appeal like this cherry blossom tree that looks amazing set against the faded pink siding of a house.

Walking down 18th Street, I spotted the Spanish Baroque style tower atop Mission High School, its design a nod to the state's past. The palm trees that line Dolores Street were another symbol of California while its native poppies were confined to ones found at a flower stand.

When I lived in the Mission many years ago it was largely Hispanic with loads of bodegas and tacquerias (Pancho Villa was my go-to place for burritos). While many of those places remain, they are now joined by bistros and bakeries and clothing shops that I wish had been there when I was a resident. One of which is Tartine, a bakery that I had read a lot about. So with time to kill before meeting another friend, I stopped in for an espresso and slice of chocolate tea cake. It was delicious and with a window seat at my disposal, I sat for an hour writing in my notebook and people watching.

Afterwards, it was drinks and small plates of Southern Indian treats at Dosa with another dear friend who I've known since middle school. All in all, a perfect way to spend a day in the city by the bay.

Photos by Michele.

Back Home

Just returned from California where I spent the week visiting family and friends. It was great fun but now I must get back to real life and work tomorrow. Photos and tales coming up.

iPhone photo by Michele.