Bastille Day in New York

Bastille Day on East 60th Street, New York City. Photo: Michele.

Allons enfants de la patrie,

Le jour de gloire est arrivé!

East 60th Street was in full swing today celebrating Bastille Day two days early. Presented by the French Institute Alliance Française, the street fair had dancing and singing, drinking of wine and eating of fine foods, face painting and balloon animals for the kids, and loads of booths with raffle prizes and French products for sale. It even had a very sassy mime. (All photos below by Michele).

Did I mention food? Loads of items to choose from including fruit tarts, brioche, crepes, tri-colour macarons, canneles, and more. It was a fun day and a perfect excuse to celebrate everything French.

Hidden Gardens

Recently I've taken to walking over to the Church of St Luke in the Field on the weekends to sit in their gardens. An Episcopal church originally founded in 1820, St. Luke's in the Field shares its block of Hudson Street in the West Village with an elementary school, St. Luke's School, along with a series of lovely gardens.  

Hidden behind tall brick walls is a series of six gardens, all connected by paths that allow you to stroll from one to the next. There’s a lawn, maple and cherry trees, a rose garden, and even a contemplation corner with pink, purple, and white flowers. It’s a wonderful retreat from the bustle of the city where cell phones are discouraged but where one can sit and read or ponder for as long as one wishes.

My favourite though is the Barrow Street Garden, which isn't perfectly manicured (a plus in my mind) and is filled with a wide variety of flowers from hydrangeas and roses to petunias and Lantana. It's also home to a multitude of birds and butterflies (and, unfortunately, bees). Just today, I watched a hummingbird drink from a butterfly tree (can you spot him in the photo?) as monarch butterflies flitted by. I also got to hang out with dozens of little sparrows, who I adore. These guys have no fear, hopping down right next to you.

At times, living in the city only adds to the stress that's already in our lives. That's why places such as these are so important; even in the midst of concrete and taxis, one needs a bit of nature and quiet to calm the nerves and lift the spirits.

All photos by Michele.

Summer Art

"USA. New York City. Little Italy" Leonard Freed (1956)

While my busy schedule this summer caused me to miss some art exhibits (Kara Walker at the Domino Sugar Factory), I did manage to sneak in some gallery and museum visits. Here are some of the things I saw.

The late Magnum photographer Leonard Freed had a lifelong love affair with Italy and its people and an exhibit at the Leica Gallery New York showcases some of the many images he took over a period of 50 years in Milan, Naples, Rome, Sicily, and New York's Little Italy. His photos wonderfully depict everyday people going about their daily lives—working, playing, celebrating weddings and religious holidays—perfectly capturing the essence of a place and culture. At the Leica Gallery through August 9, 2014.

"Actress Sophia Loren in Italy" David "Chim" Seymour (1955)

Contact sheets give viewers insight into a photographer’s creative process and the recent “Magnum Contact Sheets” exhibit at the Milk Gallery was a photography fan’s dream with examples from some of Magnum's greatest photographers on display including Rene Burri’s iconic images of Che Guevara, David “Chim” Seymour’s shots of a sultry Sophia Loren, Eve Arnold’s behind the scenes images of the doomed cast of The Misfits, and one of Elliott Erwitt’s famed dog shoots. The exhibit is sadly over but if you have the money to spare, you can purchase the book, Magnum Contact Sheets.

"Real Gabinete Português de Leitura (Royal Portuguese Reading Room)" Caio Reisewitz (2004)

One of the current exhibits at the International Center of Photography is devoted to the work of Brazilian artist Caio Reisewitz who creates large-scale colour photographs of locations in his country that are stunningly beautiful. One of my favourites is of the interior of the Real Gabinete Português de Leitura; it's so big you feel like you could step right inside. Also included in the show are small photo collages where urban scenes are found within the wilds of the Brazilian forest. At the ICP through September 7, 2014.

"A Certain Slant of Light" by Spencer Finch on a Sunday afternoon. Photo by Michele.

“A Certain Slant of Light” by Spencer Finch is just simply beautiful. With 365 films of colour placed onto the glass walls of the Morgan Library and Museum’s Gilbert Court and with additional ones hanging on glass panels, the result is a daily change in light patterns. Inspired by the library’s collection of medieval Books of Hours, the films have been arranged strategically to correspond with the changing seasons and the red panels symbolize important birthdays of such people as Emily Dickinson. This is an exhibit I plan on seeing again on multiple visits. At the Morgan through January 11, 2015.

"Balloon Dog (Yellow)" Jeff Koons (1994-2000)

The large Jeff Koons Retrospective at the Whitney Museum is the museum’s last major exhibit before they move to their new space in the Meatpacking District next year. While I’ve never been a big Koons fan there is much here to like: his oversized balloon dogs and giant hanging heart are delightful and there’s his sculpture of Buster Keaton and of course Michael Jackson and his monkey, Bubbles, in full porcelain glory. But then there’s “Sponge Shelf,” which is literally a stack of kitchen sponges, and pieces from the “Made in Heaven” series featuring Koons and his then wife, the former Italian porn star La Cicciolina, that just leave me shaking my head. At the Whitney through October 19, 2014.

Bastille Day

This afternoon Bastille Day was celebrated a day early on the Upper East Side. Hosted by the French Institute Alliance Francaise, three blocks of East 60th Street were taken over by vendors selling food, drinks, and gifts along with various organizations advertising everything French from learning the language to travelling to French-speaking countries. There were also wine tastings for the adults and face painting for the children.

The Hungry March Band

Les Petits Chanteurs de Monaco.

The day was filled with performances including Can-Can dancers, a marching band, and Les Petits Chanteurs de Monaco (school boys who sounded like angels). Everyone seemed to be having a good time even if the humidity made it a tad uncomfortable.

Hello there, Patrick Bruel.

The highlight for me was running into singer/actor Patrick Bruel whose photo I quickly snapped (I felt like a member of the paparazzi). If you're not familiar with his work, you should check him out (he's performing in New York on November 1).

Sorry to get in your way, Mr. Cunningham.

There was a surprise waiting for me when I got home and started to look through my photos. While attempting to photograph the balloon man, I unknowingly took a photo of the legendary Bill Cunningham. At first elated, a second later I realized I probably ruined his shot. So apologies, Mr. Cunningham. If I had been paying more attention, I would have moved out of the way.

Leaving the event, there was one last special treat in store. Across Fifth Avenue, next to the park, was a collection of classic Citroëns, many of which had Quebec plates. It was such a delight to see the various models and all their different colours. Wouldn't it be lovely if everyone drove cars like these?

So Vive La France and Happy Bastille Day!

Bill Cunningham Facades

"Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, New York City" Bill Cunningham (ca. 1868-76)

One of the great treasures of New York City is its architecture. Walk through any neighbourhood in the city, and you will encounter buildings and landmarks that reflect a range of architectural styles and time periods, all of them reminders of New York’s past.

In 1968 photographer Bill Cunningham, himself a New York treasure, began shooting a series in which he paired a New York building with a model, usually his great friend and muse, Editta Sherman, in clothing that matched the decade in which the building was constructed. Entitled Facades, the eight-year long project was done at a moment in the city’s history when it was just starting to grapple with issues of preservation.

"St. Paul’s Chapel, New York City" Bill Cunningham (ca. 1968-76)

The New York Historical Society's new exhibit, "Bill Cunningham: Facades," highlights images from this project including some of the 88 silver gelatin prints that Cunningham donated to the society back in 1976. Arranged in chronological order, they are a wonderful history lesson in the changing trends in both architecture and fashion.

"Apthorp Apartments, New York City" Bill Cunningham (ca. 1968-76)

"Carnegie Mansion, New York City" Bill Cunningham (ca. 1968-76)

Cunningham covered almost 200 years of history from the late 1700s to the 1950s and included many of the city’s great architectural landmarks—The Guggenheim Museum, Rockefeller Center, Grand Central Station—as well as numerous houses and apartment buildings. While some of the locations have since changed, it was fun spotting those that look the same. I didn't have to read the captions to identify Grove Street in a couple of images; I recognized the houses and private court that I’ve walked by countless times. At a quick glance, many of the images appear like they were taken in the decade alluded to by the clothes while in others anachronisms pop up like a modern day taxi cab.

"'21' Club, New York City" Bill Cunningham (ca. 1968-76)

One of the most striking elements of the photos is the accuracy of the costumes. Cunningham went to great lengths to find authentic period items, searching through thrift shops and markets. Sometimes he struck gold: once he found a mob cap circa 1770 for $6; “the shop thought [it] was a doily.” And Editta, dubbed the "Duchess of Carnegie Hall," was his perfect model. In the photos she looks like she's really enjoying herself, smiling and striking a pose for the camera. Although she's fabulous in all of the outfits, she seems to have been particularly suited to the clothing of the Gilded Age; it's easy to picture her waltzing into a drawing room of an Edith Wharton novel with the latest gossip. 

"Paris Theater, New York City" Bill Cunningham (ca. 1968-76)

While the images may make you wistful for the past (I'm a sucker for an Art Deco building and an elegant gown) they are a fun juxtaposition of two New York obsessions—real estate and fashion—that Bill Cunningham captured perfectly.

"Bill Cunningham: Facades" is at the New York Historical Society through June 15, 2014. For more information, visit here.

On Sullivan Street

Sullivan Street, which runs from Soho to Greenwich Village, is a favourite street of mine. I walk down it almost daily and adore its architecture and how quiet it is, especially when compared to the nearby bustling streets. Named for American Revolutionary War General John Sullivan, who would go on to become governor (then call “president”) of New Hampshire, it has been home to some well-known residents including Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia, who was born at number 177. One day last fall, I walked from one end to the other, taking some photos along the way. Here are a few of them.

Starting at the corner of Sullivan and Broome Street in Soho, these first few tree-lined blocks are filled with a mix of Federal row houses, Italianate-style apartment buildings, and the Vesuvio Playground. There's also a handful of businesses, including a great bodega/newsstand (Soho News International) and leather goods shop (Il Bisonte) as well as some restaurants including Blue Ribbon and Alidoro, which makes some of the best sandwiches in the city (you just have to be careful and follow the rules when you order). 

The block between Prince and Houston though is my favourite. It is heavily populated with places to eat including the Dutch, Local, Once Upon a Tart , and Pepe Rosso. The last is not surprising as this block still has traces of its Italian past from the style of the buildings to the still present Pino's Prime Meat (Joe’s Dairy, maker of some amazing Mozzarella, shuttered its doors in 2013 after being open for 60 years). The block ends with the massive Church of St. Anthony of Padua, which was built 1886-88 in the Romanesque Revival style. St. Anthony's was the first American parish established to minister to Italian immigrants.

Cross over Houston and the atmosphere changes, for one block anyway. This is where you find the MacDougal-Sullivan Gardens Historical District, a row of Greek Revival-style row houses built in the late 1840s that shares a large, private garden with the houses behind it on MacDougal Street. They are reminiscent of London, which is only fitting as Anna Wintour lives at number 172. The street has managed to retain its 19th-century feel even with the addition of a modernistic glass structure next to the old school Legionnaire Club. 

Hit Bleecker Street and suddenly Sullivan Street changes again. This is NYU territory and there’s a definite downtrodden look to the next few blocks filled with bars and cheap eateries. One place of note is the Sullivan Street Tea & Spice Company, which occupies the former Triangle Social Club, a notorious mob hangout for the Genovese crime family. Vincent "the Chin" Gigante, who lived across the street, was a well-known mafia figure who would wander around in a robe, acting disoriented in an attempt to avoid arrest. It didn’t work and he was sent way in 1997. The shop has retained the club's original mural, mosaic-tile floor, and old tin ceiling.

The last block of Sullivan is taken over by NYU buildings including its law school and dead ends at Washington Square Park, which is due its own post. So many houses, so many stories. I could have taken a photo of each one. 

Photos by Michele.